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Niagara and Virginia: Two Places to Rid Yourself of the Winter Blues
Frederick News-Post, January 21, 2007
Winter has a way of making me wish I were somewhere else. Daylight comes and goes while I'm at work. Lethargy takes over in the evenings, leaving me sitting in front of the television or surfing the Internet, dreaming of getting away. But where to go? Like snowbirds everywhere, I could flee south. By mid-winter I can't deny the allure of the beaches of a Caribbean island or Mexican resort. On the other hand, I could embrace the season and take off for the famed ski resorts of the Rocky Mountains. Fresh powder, cozy lodges, and the warmth of a hot tub on a cold night appeal to my need to get off the couch and do something. The problem with these two options is that they're the options everyone else is pursuing for their winter escape. Thus prices are high and locations often booked well in advance. And if, like me, you plan your major vacation for the summer, getting the time off for a long trip just might not be possible.
Fortunately, getting rid of the winter blues often requires little more than a change of scenery. The vacation doesn't have to be long or expensive. The distance from home need not be far. A couple of nights in a hotel, dinner out, and some new sites to explore can boost your mood and get you through the dark months. For a winter adventure that keeps within a tight time and money budget, consider taking a long weekend trip to a nearby summer hot spot. You might end up enjoying it more than you would in the summer, as you won't have to deal with crowds and are likely to find bargain rates on lodging and travel. Among the options easily accessible from Maryland, Niagara Falls and Virginia Beach stand out as top destinations.
Niagara Falls
The Maid of the Mist doesn't run, and you can't take the Aero Car over the whirlpool, but you won't mind. In the winter, Niagara Falls is resplendent, a true wonderland of ice, snow and roaring water. With Southwest Airlines specials making it possible to fly roundtrip from Baltimore to Buffalo for under $100, there's no reason not to go.
Taking advantage of the long Martin Luther King, Jr. holiday weekend, my husband and I make the trip to one of our region's great sites. As we cross into Canada, a thick wet snow descends, limiting visibility. Though I strain, I can't catch a view of the Falls. I can, however, see the bright neon lights announcing the attractions of Clifton Hill, the main tourist drag. Haunted houses, wax museums, simulator rides, and other novelties line the street, begging visitors to test the limits of their credulity. I laugh at the absurdity of it all...and give thanks that it's not summer. I imagine that my amusement would be replaced with annoyance in the face of crowds, wearied parents, and demanding children. As it is, the scene seems surreal.
After settling into the McGrail Guesthouse--a cozy bed and breakfast that provides visitors with slippers, afternoon tea, and big bowls of popcorn--we head down to the main attraction. I've only seen Niagara Falls in photos, and I'm anxious to determine if it lives up to my expectations. First spying the American Falls, I find myself a bit let down. Huge boulders litter the bottom of the Falls, creating a great roar as the water slams into it. Monstrous icicles cling to the rock walls beside the Falls. It's impressive, but it's not what I pictured. But then I look down to my right and see a curtain of mist. No offense intended to the American Falls, but it is the waterfall hidden behind this curtain, the waterfall of legend and lore, that I have come to see.
Horseshoe Falls is the essence of Niagara Falls. With more than 6 million cubic feet of water dropping approximately 188 feet every minute, the noise is tremendous. As I stand up against the rail and peer over, I am hypnotized by the swirling rush of water being pulled toward the precipice. The viewing area is large, but mainly empty, and I'm able to easily move along with the water, following it as it plunges from the river above to the river below. The force of the water creates a plume of mist that makes it impossible to see the entire 2,200 feet of crestline at once, but I forgive the Falls this fault as rainbows created by a mix of sun and mist appear overhead. Curious to see the Falls from a different angle, we troop down to Journey Behind the Falls, which is reduced to half-price for the winter season. From the viewing windows, the water seems like a solid wall of white.
We stay at the Falls until we can no longer feel our extremities, but we're enticed back that night even though the sign atop a hotel flashes a temperature reading well below freezing. With my hat pulled down low on my forehead and my scarf covering my mouth and nose, I can just barely peek out, but I have a large enough field of vision to see the Falls illuminated. The American Falls and Horseshoe Falls glow blue, yellow, green and red, with the colors switching periodically. Huddled together (the romance of the Falls alive and well), we watch through one change, then head up Clifton Hill to the Hershey Store where a steaming cup of hot chocolate proves to be the perfect nightcap.
Our choices for what to do the next day are many. We could try our luck at the tables and slot machines of either Casino Niagara or Fallsview Casino. Or we could spend the day at the Butterfly Conservatory or Aviary, both of which can be visited as part of the Niagara Falls Winter Magic Pass. But, looking for an actual taste of the region, we decide to head to one of the local wineries to indulge in icewine, a regional specialty. Good for more than turning the falls into icy wonders, the reliably cold winters of the Niagara region allow local vineyards to produce icewine, a desert wine made from the concentrated juice of grapes allowed to freeze on the vine. Niagara-on-the-Lake, which is just about 15 miles from the Falls, is the center of icewine production and worth a visit for both a taste of the wine and for the picturesque country roads and the quaint town center. Wineries welcome visitors year-round, offering tours and tastings along with plenty of bottles for you to take home. But January might just be the best time of the year for a visit as the region throws its annual Icewine Festival. Outdoor ice bars and special tastings arranged by individual wineries are highlights for the casual visitor, while the Icewine Gala and Winemaker's Dinner provide an opportunity for connoisseurs to indulge their passion. Newcomers to the icewine scene, my husband and I are excited to snag two seats at a tasting at Peller Estates. An expert leads us through three different icewines, each paired with a matching appetizer. It's a fun, informative, and delicious hour, and we leave with a bottle of Riesling icewine to share with friends.
We plan to spend our last day on the American side of the Falls, but before we cross back over the border, we head down to the Falls for a last look from the Canadian side. It's not a view we're likely to forget. A strong night wind has blown the mist created by the Falls over everything in the area--trees, lampposts, signs--and low temperatures have turned the mist into ice. It's breathtaking. And a final reminder that winter has its own share of magic worth celebrating.
Virginia Beach
Ready for more winter adventure after the success of our January trip, I'm looking for something to do in February when an advertisement for whale watching in Virginia Beach catches my eye. A package organized by the Virginia Beach Convention and Visitors Bureau includes two nights at a beachfront hotel, admission to the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center, IMAX tickets, and a whale watching boat trip. At just over $150 for the two of us, we're sold.
February is being its usual cruel self--grey and cold--as we set out for the beach. But as soon as we arrive, we're reminded that winter might just be a state of mind. A few dedicated surfers bob up and down in the waves, wet suits, gloves and neoprene boots covering nearly every inch of exposed skin. And while I admire their hardiness, I won't be joining them. For us, this trip will not include the usual beach activities of swimming or sunning. A brisk breeze whips down the strand; the sun is hidden behind a blanket of clouds. But the salty smell of the air is refreshing and the endlessness of the ocean a welcome sight. As we walk down the boardwalk--empty except for a few joggers and dog-walkers--we feel invigorated, almost welcoming the cold that we'd been cursing at home earlier in the week.
Pulling up to the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center, we realize that when it's too cold for the beach, the Aquarium is clearly the place to be. We can't find a spot in the regular lot and are forced to park in the overflow lot, causing me to worry about whether we're going to be able to get close enough to the tanks to enjoy the exhibits. Once inside, however, we find that the building is spacious enough that crowd size is no worry. With over 800,000 gallons of tanks, the Aquarium's holdings represent a broad swath of ocean life, but the focus is squarely on the life that can be found in the waters right outside. I'm fascinated by the jellyfish glowing purple in their darkened aquarium, while my husband enjoys the talk held at the stingray tank, where we're encouraged to reach in and touch the rays. The centerpiece of the main building, the Norfolk Canyon Aquarium, gets both of our attentions. In a large tank that recreates a canyon off the coast of Virginia--complete with the remnants of a ship wreck--sharks, rays and large fish maneuver past each other. Thanks to the amphitheater-style viewing area, we're immediately absorbed in the scene.
By the time we're done with both of the Aquarium's buildings, we're hungry, so we head to Tautogs, a local favorite tucked away in a nondescript house off the strip. The friends who recommended the restaurant tell us that the wait can be long, but winter has stemmed the tide of diners, and we're shown directly to a table on the enclosed porch. The atmosphere is casual; the food is fabulous. We delight in the blackened tuna and the stuffed flounder, and although full, we can't pass on slices of pie: s'mores for me, key lime for my husband. We feel free to linger over our meal, and our waitress, not hurried by summer crowds, is friendly and full of information about the area. When we ask for her suggestions of other restaurants to try, she not only tells us her favorites, but also comes back with a list she's written out complete with addresses and hours. The reasons to travel off-season just keep piling up.
In the morning, we continue with our viewing of sea life as we redeem the vouchers for IMAX tickets that came with our package and settle in for a viewing of "Sharks." Watching it in 3-D, I feel as though I'm underwater, and I have to sit on my hands to keep from trying to reach out and touch the various sharks we're introduced to. Although I'm warm and dry (which I appreciate), I feel as if I am swimming with these oft-maligned creatures.
After the film, I learn that I'll have to be content with limiting my day's ocean life observations to sharks on the big screen, since high winds force us to reschedule our afternoon whale watching trip for the next morning. With the day free, we decide to explore a few of Virginia Beach's parks. At First Landing State Park, we stand on the site believed to be the location where the Jamestown settlers spent their first night. We then take advantage of the park's many miles of trails, choosing to hike the 1.5 mile Bald Cypress Trail. Trekking over swamp and under massive cypress trees, we feel as if we've been transported to the Deep South. Enamored with the landscape, we head to Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge to enjoy one of my favorite beach activities--watching the sunset. Bundled up, we sit among the dunes and watch the sun paint the sky a rosy pink before it dips into the ocean. It's just as beautiful on this winter evening as it is on any summer night..and we don't have to compete with anyone for the best viewing spot.
We close out our trip with a 2.5 hour excursion aboard a whale watching boat, hoping to spy one of the humpback or fin whales that winter off of Virginia's coast. It's cold on the water--long underwear, scarves, gloves, hats, and coats are the order of the day--but we're all hoping to be the first to spot a whale, so we shun the heated indoor section of the boat for the decks. I scan the seas with my binoculars, while an interpreter from the Aquarium feeds us facts about the coast and its life. We don't see any whales during our first hour, and my husband, who has been on whale watching trips but never seen a whale, is about to call it quits when a humpback surfaces about 50 feet from our boat. Breeching and then diving, the whale shows off for us for nearly an hour. Each time it disappears I swear that I'm going to go inside, but I can never walk away from the rail, always hoping for one more glimpse. Eventually we have to head back to land, but by then, we're content (and quite cold). Fortunately our hotel has generously extended our check-out time indefinitely, allowing us to enjoy hot showers and change into warm, dry clothes before we head home. We take in a last deep breath of ocean air and then point the car north. By the time we reach the interstate, we're already planning where we'll go on our next winter getaway.
If You Go
Niagara Falls
McGrail Guesthouse
www.mcgrailguesthouse.com
Rates begin at $65 (Canadian). Ask for special seasonal rates.
Information on area attractions and the Winter Magic Pass can be found at www.niagaraparks.com
The 12th Annual Niagara Icewine Festival will be held January 19-28, 2007. Information on the festival and on Niagara wineries can be found at www.grapeandwine.com
Virginia Beach,
Virginia Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau
www.vbfun.com
Whale watching packages are available from December to March.
Tautogs
www.tautogs.com
Only open for dinner. Entrees range from $10.95 to $18.95.
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