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Get Active in Alexandria
Frederick News-Post, August 5, 2007
Alexandria, Virginia evokes images of leisurely strolls up brick streets lined with colonial houses, long lunches at outdoor tables, and unrushed browsing through boutiques. It should. That's the image Alexandria has cultivated. A town where time moves slowly and you do too. A relaxing alternative to the hustle and bustle right across the Potomac. But there's more to Alexandria than passive sightseeing.
If King Street is the heart of Old Town Alexandria, then the Mount Vernon Trail is the lifeline of adventurous Alexandria. A total of 18.5 miles, the trail runs along the Potomac from Theodore Roosevelt Island to Mount Vernon, with a handful of other sites worth exploring in-between. The path is broad, paved, and fairly flat, making it ideal for bike travel by riders of all fitness levels.
So when you're planning for a weekend in Alexandria, think of the intersection of King Street and the Mount Vernon Trail as the crux of the city and prepare to explore both thoroughfares. Throw some athletic gear in with your dinner clothes, and ready yourself for a weekend sampler that mixes the natural with the urban, the contemporary with the classic. You'll find it to be just the right combination of action and relaxation.
Get in the (Bike) Saddle
Not having your own bike is no excuse for neglecting the Mount Vernon Trail. Locally-owned bike shop Wheel Nuts will be happy to set you up with a hybrid bike made for the trail, or, if you're feeling bold, a tandem bike.
The free map of the Mount Vernon Trail isn't really necessary as the trail is well-marked, but it does provide some information about points of interest along the way, so go ahead and pick one up. If you only have one day, you'll have to decide whether you want to go north or south. If you have two days, I suggest doing both.
Pedaling north from Alexandria, you'll be treated to an unfurled view of the Washington skyline, with the Lincoln and Washington monuments, the Capitol dome, and the National Cathedral easy landmarks to pick out. As you pass Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport, you'll notice a crowd gathered in the area referred to as Gravelly Point. Hop off your bike and join them to watch planes take off and land. It might sound a little odd, but there's a certain thrill to watching a mammoth 777 lift off right over your head.
You might also want to make a stop at the Navy and Marine Memorial to pay tribute to Americans who have served at sea, before making it to your final destination, Teddy Roosevelt Island. Since he was often referred to as the "conservation president," it's fitting that Roosevelt is honored with an oasis of green, designed for trail walking and picnicking. After a bike ride, it's the perfect place to snack, rest your legs, and watch the Potomac's powerboats pass.
The section of the Mount Vernon Trail that stretches south is a bit longer, but many find the reward at the end to be well worth the exertion required; Mount Vernon Estate and Gardens, the home of our nation's first president, caps off the trail. For anyone interested in history or American culture, a tour is a must.
If presidential homes don't intrigue you, there are other sites that might attract you to the southern route. Just past the edge of Alexandria, you can detour to the Jones Point Lighthouse, a small clapboard structure that hasn't been used since 1925 but remains picturesque. Another couple of miles south, you'll reach Dyke Marsh Preserve, the last large tidal fresh-water wetland in the D.C. area. Park your bike at the trailhead and set off in search of the marsh's wildlife, including beavers, muskrats, red foxes, snapping turtles and many species of birds.
See Art in Action
If you took the trip to Teddy Roosevelt Island, you probably saw the large sculpture of the former president, which was created by Paul Manship, one of the most prominent American sculptors of the early twentieth century. Make a visit to the Torpedo Factory Art Center and you might just catch a glimpse of the next person to make it big in American art. The center, which was constructed in 1918 for the manufacturing of torpedoes (hence the name), now hosts 82 studios, 6 galleries, workshops, an art school and an archaeology museum. As you wander through the center, you'll see finished pieces for sale and observe artists at work. If they're not deep in thought or process, feel free to engage the artists in conversation.
Roll on the River
Acknowledge the Potomac, a vital shaping force in Alexandria's history, by getting out on its waters. There's something empowering about commanding your own skiff, and with a rental from Belle Haven Marina, you can make it happen. Choose to ply the waters in a canoe, kayak or Jon boat, or set sail in a Flying Scot or Sunfish.
If you'd rather let someone else do the work, purchase tickets for a cruise with the Potomac Riverboat Company. One tour motors you past the D.C. monuments, while another highlights the Alexandria Waterfront. A third option takes you down to Mount Vernon for a tour of the estate and grounds.
Step Off the Beaten Path
There's a certain path in Alexandria, encompassing Christ Church, the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Shop, and Gadsby's Tavern, that's been traversed for literally hundreds of years. If you can't bear to leave Alexandria without joining the parade, the official visitor's guide, available at Ramsey House Visitors Center, outlines a great self-guided walking tour. If, however, you've already seen the historical side of the city or are looking for some sites less visited, walk west on King Street, away from the river and the majority of tourists and toward the George Washington Masonic National Memorial. Explore the memorial's collections to learn a little bit more about the mysterious freemasons, and then make your way to the top of the tower for a sprawling view of Alexandria and surrounding areas.
Before heading back to the city center, pop into the museum at the United States Patent Trademark Office. It's only one room, but the displays are interesting. In August, the exhibition will change from Shoes to the Art of Invention.
Have Your Fill
According to the staff at Ramsey House, "It's impossible to go hungry in Alexandria." That's a good thing, because you can't enjoy an active day on an empty stomach. Many restaurants in Alexandria offer al fresco dining--not to be missed on a beautiful day--and almost all post their menus outside, so it's easy to browse before deciding.
Pub food is a staple in Alexandria, so be sure to give it a try. The fish and chips at Eamonn's, one of the more recent additions to the community of Irish eateries, is simple but tasty.
Dinner at Majestic Cafe is a treat, especially if you go for the Sunday family-style dinner that includes a main, three sides, and a dessert. If you're looking for a menu that's a bit more adventurous than the new southern cooking of Majestic, head to Farrah Olivia for dishes that are influenced by French and African cooking. And for a romantic night out, Restaurant Eve is the place. The tasting room is a food-lover's dream, but the bistro's hardly a step down.
And of course, there's always a need for dessert. Try a scoop of ice cream from one of the two local shops--Pop's Old Fashioned Ice Cream Co. and The Scoop Grill & Homemade Ice Cream--conveniently located directly across from each other on King Street. In fact, have two scoops, so you can decide for yourself which is best.
Drinks, anyone? If the night's too young for you to retire, head to Eamonn's and look overhead to see if a pirate flag is flying. If so, turn down Columbus St. and head for the red door with the blue light. Ring the bell, and when the door is answered, request admittance to PX, a new lounge designed in the style of a 1920s speakeasy. While it takes away some of the fun, you might want to make a reservation, as they maintain strict limits on the number of guests allowed to enjoy the pricy cocktails. Too much work just to get a drink? Then pop into Tiffany Tavern for a cold brew and lively bluegrass music.
Have Fun
For years, Alexandria has been pigeon-holed as nothing more than "old town." While history is certainly strong in Alexandria, so is adventure. So mix it up. Enjoy classic architecture, then purchase a piece of modern art. Wander the flag-lined streets, then pedal your bike down to a tree-lined marsh. King Street might always reign supreme, but you'd be a fool to overlook everything else Alexandria has to offer, especially the Mount Vernon Trail.
If you go:
If You Go
There's no shortage of hotels in Alexandria. Visit www.funside.com for links to the boutique Morrison House, the Capital Area Bed & Breakfast Network, and chain hotels.
The Ramsey House Visitors Center (221 King Street) provides maps, brochures, and recommendations. You can also pick up a free 24 hour parking proclamation.
Wheel Nuts (302 Montgomery St., www.wheelnuts.net) rents adult hybrid bikes for a daily rate of $25. Tandem rentals are $28 and children's bikes or trailers are $20.
The Torpedo Factory Art Center (105 North Union St., www.torpedofactory.org) is free to the public and open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Mariner Sailing School at Belle Haven Marina (www.saildc.com) rents canoes, kayaks and Jon boats for $20 for 2 hours. Flying Scots are $54 and Sunfish are $35 for 2 hours.
Cruises with the Potomac Riverboat Company (www.potomacriverboatco.com) cost between $12 and $36 for adults. Monument and Alexandria tours leave hourly.
The George Washington Masonic National Memorial (101 Callahan Drive, www.gwmemorial.org) is free and open to the public daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Guided tours are available at 10 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.
The USPTO Museum (600 Dulany Street) is free and open to the public from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Monday - Friday, noon to 5 p.m. on Saturday.
At Eamonn's (728 King St., www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com), a single order of chips costs $2.50 and a regular order of cod is $6.99.
The Sunday family style dinner at Majestic Cafe (911 King St., www.majesticcafe.com) costs $68 and is enough to serve 4.
Dinner entrees at Farrah Olivia (600 Franklin St., www.farraholiviarestaurant.com) range in price from $18 to $32.
The five-course tasting menu at Restaurant Eve (110 S. Pitt St., www.restauranteve.com.) costs $95. Entree prices at the bistro range from $27 to $36.
Requests for reservations to PX can be made to clinton(at)restauranteve.com. Ask about recommended attire.
Weekend entertainment begins at 9 p.m. at Tiffany Tavern (1116 King Street, www.tiffanytavern.com).
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